Ready for lesson number 2.
First I am going to start with a disgusting part of RV’ing, draining your sewer tanks. RV’s have a gray water tank where water from the sinks and shower drain and they have a black water tank where your toilet drains to. These two tanks then have a valve to open and close them for draining. This valve, on many RV’s, is near the tank and not at then end of the drain pipe where you connect your sewer hose to then connect to the sewer outlet at the RV park.
Here is what happened to me and how I solved it. On our previous RV, a travel trailer, unbeknownst to me the valve for the black tank did not close fully so when I went to connect the sewer hose to the drain pipe I was met with a very unpleasant situation when the drain cap was removed. Sewage had collected in the drain pipe and, well you can figure out the rest. Obviously the valve needed to be fixed or the obstruction cleared, but I found a backup remedy that is now a mandatory purchase for any RV I own. It is a twist-on valve that goes on the end of the drainpipe. This allows you to close the pipe right at the drain cap, thereby allowing you to remove the cap without any accidents.
Next item regards leveling your RV. It is important to get your RV level, both side to side and front to back. This allows for better draining of your sinks and shower, plus you do not want to be sleeping uphill or downhill. Front to back leveling is fairly easy as that is the natural axis of the trailer on its wheels. Side to side leveling becomes a little more tricky because it requires raising the trailer on one side. Depending on the size and weight of your RV it gets a little more difficult. When we had travel trailers I learned very fast that the easiest way to level the RV was to have four scissor jacks installed on each corner. These jacks could physically lift the trailer off its tires. I would then just have a couple little stick-on bubble levels positioned so I could see what I needed to do to level the trailer. Now on a fifth wheel it is a little harder because the RV weighs a lot and the jacks installed in the rear are for stabilizing the RV and not supporting the weight of the trailer. The system I use starts with a very large bubble level mounted on the hitch (so I can see it from the cab of the truck).
What is nice about this level is that the black lines shown on the level indicate you need to raise that side of the RV by one inch. First I move the RV around the site to see if there is a more level spot. If not then I see how close I can get it to level. In the picture above it shows the ball a little to the left, meaning the trailer is about 1/2 inch off level on the left side. To make it level you would need to add 1/2 inch under the left side tires. At 1/2 inch I probably would not do anything as the levelers I use are in 1 inch increments. So, in conjunction with this level I use these blocks which raise the RV in 1 inch increments and they are stackable.
The bubble level also has a small level built into it so you an can level from front to back. I then use my remote, which controls the front jacks, and stand at this level and lower or raise the front jacks until the trailer is level.
Lastly regards the roof vents on the RV. RV’s come with a various number of vents in the roof that are covered by a plastic lid that opens from inside the RV. These vents are usually in the living space, the bathroom and in the bedroom. Some have fans in the vents. The problem is that when you open the vent rain can come in, meaning you cannot use these vents in the rain, and you may need to. To resolve that issue they sell a plastic cover that mounts over the vent on the roof and changes the opening so it is now vertical and makes it more difficult for rain to get in. I have had these on every RV I have owned.
I am sure there are many other great ideas out there, but these have become my mandatory items. If I cannot take them from one RV to the next they are my first purchase before I ever take the RV out.